Flap Lid Box Designer
Create wooden boxes with one or two flaps. Each flap is a hood made of a lid plate, a skirt and two cheeks, and swings outward around a low pivot on the end walls. The pivot pin is an extended wall tab — no hardware at all.
Box Dimensions
Envelope of the closed box including flaps, lid plate and bottom
Flaps
Two flaps with a centre seam, hinged at front and back wall
Height of the skirt hanging outside the hinge wall
Distance of the pivot below the top of the wall. Lower = the flap swings further out
Clearance of the round hole around the square pivot pin
Distance of skirt and cheeks from the walls
Gap between the two flaps in the middle
Material
Laser cut compensation (0 = none)
Finger Joints
Classic finger joints on all edges
Flaps without hardware
An extended tab of the hinge wall passes through the end wall and the cheek. Square pin in a round hole — the whole hinge comes from the sheet.
1 or 2 flaps
One flap across the full depth or two flaps with a centre seam. Pivot, skirt and clearances are adjustable, the 3D slider shows the opening up to the stop.
Finger joints or enclosed
Classic finger joints or an enclosed build with smooth end walls, lips and a foot. Export as SVG, DXF, PDF and STEP.
Tips for the flap lid box
- Pivot: A low pivot lets the flap swing far out and stand open on its own. The automatic setting picks about two thirds of the wall height.
- Clearance: 0.2–0.4 mm hinge and flap clearance is usually enough for laser cuts. The flap lifts slightly inside the hole when it starts to open, so the hinge clearance should not be 0.
- Assembly: Glue the body first, then slide the cheeks onto the pivot pins and finally glue skirt and lid plate to the cheeks. No glue on the pivot pins.
- Test cut: Cut one cheek and a piece of wall with a pivot pin first to check the hole clearance and smooth rotation.